I'll be honest: I've been dying to check out Contigo, the tapas and wine joint that opened in Noe Valley. Contigo's opening had been highly anticipated--its owner and chef blogged his journey to opening up his first restaurant on his blog, In Praise of Sardines. From reading about it before it even opened, and then finally checking out the menu, I was utterly convinced that Contigo was my kind of place. A girl obsessed with all things Spanish, Italian and Portuguese--I mean, could I go wrong at a place like this?
After finally making it down to the 'hood, and nabbing a table for two at the restaurant's glorious outdoor patio (filled with planted herbs and produce like squash blossoms, tomatoes and clementines), I knew that the answer was: absolutely not.
Contigo's focused wine list (catering to Portugal, Spain and Catalan-speaking regions) was the first thing to make an impression on me--beyond the mix of the restaurant's highly sleek and modern decor and open, home-style kitchen (with pots and pans hanging from above, loaves of freshly-baked bread and cheese lining the counter, and dainty flowers inside small vases). After hanging out by the wine 'counter' in the front for about 30 minutes with our carafe of spicy and smooth red wine, we were led through the main dining room towards a small table in the corner of a covered outdoor patio where, as I mentioned earlier, plants abounded.My eyes sort of didn't know what to focus on: the delectable cheeses and meats, the small plates? The larger entrees? Contigo's menu is broken down into small starters, tapas-style small plates, and then larger entrees. To get the best of both worlds, Matt and I decided to share an entree (thinly sliced steak and buttermilk-fried onions), 3 small plates (the patatas bravas--the classic, the zucchini salad--a refresher, and the calamari with little pimientos--for a seafood kick).
Our dishes were brought in succession--from lightest to heaviest. First, though, we ordered the housemade bread and olive oil, which we munched on as we waited on the rest of the dishes. The bread was quite good, as was the fruity and balanced olive oil. I kind of love it when restaurants serve bread as a menu item--it's guaranteed to be good, and you won't be wasting your calories on something that was shipped in from a warehouse 45 miles away (and probably baked earlier).
The consensus between us was that every single dish stood out. The potatoes, served with a delicious red sauce AND allioli were top notch. Crispy, smoky, spicy, creamy. Everything that this classic Spanish dish demands. It's on the menu of every Spanish/tapas place in the city, but Contigo just does it right. The calamari was a sizeable portion, grilled (like I like them). I loved the little green peppers which came tossed with a lemon as well. This dish was a seaside village. The zucchini salad, which consisted of thinly shaved ribbons of zucchini, arugula, toasted almonds and a light vinegar dressing was also (surprisingly) good. I tend to squirm at ordering a simple salad from a restaurant because my first thought is always: I can make this at home. But here at Contigo, it really was worth it. The last dish? Our steak was cooked perfectly, accented with bits of blue cheese. The fried onions weren't quite what I expected--they were literally fried onion rings--and I could hardly tell the batter was buttermilk. But, pedestrian as they were--I loved every bite.The finishing touch? The most rich hot chocolate I've had in several years now--thick as mud--accompanied by fresh-from-the-fryer, lick-your-fingers-of-that-sugar, churros. That's right. It all ended with a bang, and I'm still reeling to go back and sample more.
P.S. Stay tuned for the grand finale of our Summer Goodies meal on Monday.
Local Pairings: Evening Empire - The Ocean in Films EP / Build the Myth Backwards EP + Contigo
San Francisco four-piece Evening Empire have already managed to crank out a pair of excellent, well-written EPs in their relatively short career. Evening Empire consists of guitarist/singer Anders Carpenter, bass player Sean Ferry, drummer Daniel Hildebrand, and Beau Trincia on synth/organ/vocals. Their latest EP, The Ocean in Films, was just released on July 21 and features 4 tracks of catchy indie rock. Much of this short player, such as the second cut,"On Parade," consists of shimmery pop-rock reminiscent of early Elvis Costello blended with hints of Murmur-era R.E.M., as well as a small dose of Wolf Parade, owing to jangly guitar, steady percussion and well-harmonized backing vocals. The EP's third track, "Mining Your Assaults," is another standout: a slow-rolling rocker that fuzzes in at just the right moments. Head over to Musical Pairings @ eating/sf to read the rest of the review. --Matthew
July 31, 2009
Contigo: Let's Do It...Together!
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July 29, 2009
Part II: Summer Goodies Dinner: First Course
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I've always associated watermelon with dessert and picnics, so was quite intrigued to find a recipe for a chilled watermelon soup with a kick of jalapeno and lime. The combination seemed a bit odd, but I wasn't turned off. I envisioned the taste of a sweet tomato gazpacho--my favorite chilled soup--and thought to myself, "why not?"
This watermelon soup came together not unlike a fruit smoothie. Mix everything together and throw it all into a blender. Refrigerate. Boom. Done. It's the perfect starter to a fresh summery meal--preferably oriented around a fish main (and that crunchy/creamy/juicy dessert we featured on Monday). The best way that I could describe this soup is to say that it's very much like a bowl of more traditional tomato/cucumber gazpacho. The watermelon pairs perfectly with the spicy kick of the jalapeno and the tartness of the lime. The mint and green onion provide a refreshing finish and any additional garnishes are welcome is small or large amounts. The bottom line with this soup is that you just can't go wrong.
Watermelon Gazpacho
adapted from Cooking For Friends
* makes about 4 servings, more or less depending on whether you serve this as a light appetizer or first course.
1 small seedless watermelon, cut up into chunks
1 jalapeno pepper
2-3 stalks of green onion, sliced thinly
1 lime
1/4 cup of mint leaves
1 tablespoon of rice vinegar
sea salt and pepper, to taste
1. Put the watermelon chunks into a large bowl (you should use approximately 3 cups worth). Reserve a few chunks for garnish.
2. Zest the lime over the watermelon and squeeze the lime juice into the bowl.
3. Cut a few thin slices of the jalapeno pepper and set aside for garnish. Finely dice the rest of the jalapeno (make sure to remove the seeds) and add to the bowl.
4. Add in the green onions (reserve some for garnish), rice vinegar and mint leaves, stirring to combine.
5. Transfer the mixture into a blender, whipping until creamy and smooth.
6. Season with sea salt and pepper, to taste.
7. Chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Garnish with watermelon chunks, jalapeno pepper slices, green onion and a few mint leaves.
Musical Pairings: Phoenix - Wolfgang Amadeus Phoenix + Watermelon Gazpacho
This watermelon soup serves as the first course of eating/sf's summer menu. It is a delicious summertime dish that is surprisingly complex. It features an initial sweetness that would be expected from a soup made primarily from watermelon, but as the sweetness subsides, it reveals a little unexpected heat from the jalapeno. It is a great starter that really wakes up your taste buds, and therefore requires an album that will also wake you up and facilitate engaging conversation. I have the perfect album: Phoenix - Wolfgang Amadeus Phoenix. In fact, I've been eager to pair this album with the right recipe for the past couple of months or so, and so I'm happy to have found a great pairing for what is probably one of the top ten best albums to have been released so far this year. Wolfgang Amadeus Phoenix is sweet, light and carefree. It is a perfect album for your small gathering or a dinner for two. Head over to Musical Pairings @ eating/sf to read the rest of the story... --MatthewJuly 27, 2009
Part I: Summer Goodies Dinner: Dessert
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This is the first summer of my life that I've spent more time anxiously awaiting its end than enjoying all of its glory. Perhaps that is the downside of planning a September wedding. And yet, as we dive more deeply into the last minute details, outdoor picnics, BBQs, and farmer's markets, I've begun to savor this last stretch of summer.
This post is the first of a three-part dinner series that includes the delicious dessert you're seeing in the picture, an inventive first course, and the main attraction--which you'll have to wait for until Monday. As a true dessert fiend, I thought it would be only appropriate to start your week with one of the most visually stimulating and tastebud-pleasing desserts I've come across in a while. Nestled in the contents section of the July issue of Gourmet, this was a treasure to behold. Light and aromatic ricotta cream, topped with fresh nectarines and accompanied by a special crunchy treat--a simple brittle made with pine nuts.
Nectarines with Ricotta-Vanilla Cream and Pine Nut Brittle
* serves 2
adapted from a recipe in Gourmet Magazine
2 nectarines, 1 white and 1 yellow, cut into 1/2 inch thick slices
mint leaves
1 teaspoon of fresh lime juice
For the ricotta cream:
1/2 cup of fresh ricotta
1/8th cup of milk
1/2 teaspoon of vanilla extract
1 1/2 tablespoons of sugar
For the pine-nut brittle:
1/4 cup of toasted pine nuts
1/2 cup of sugar
1/4 cup of water
1. Make the brittle: Line a baking sheet with foil. Bring water and sugar to a boil is a small pot. Stir until the sugar has dissolved.
2. Bring the pot to a boil, swirling the mixture (don't stir) every once in a while, until the sugar begins to caramelize and turns into a nice amber color. This will take approximately 10 minutes.
3. Pour in the pine nuts, stir to combine and quickly pour the mixture onto the foil, using a silicone spatula to quickly spread the mixture into a thin disk. Let sit.
4. Combine the nectarine slices with the lime juice and a tablespoon of sugar. Let sit while you make the cream.
5. In a blender or food processor, puree the cream ingredients. Pour into a small bowl and freeze for about 5 minutes. Stir and return to the freezer for another 5-10 (we preferred the cream to be a little on the runnier side.
6. Place the mint leaves into the bowl with the nectarines and stir to combine.
7. Break the brittle into pieces.
8. Divide the cream between the bowls, top with nectarines and a few pieces of brittle for each bowl (you'll have leftover brittle with the recipe, but I don't think you'd mind).
Musical Pairings: Ella Fitzgerland & Louis Armstrong + Nectarines with Ricotta-Vanilla Cream and Pine Nut Brittle
As you can tell from reading Kasey's post, we are trying to do something a little different by suggesting a full menu for an impressive-looking, inventive and seasonally-fitting (perhaps celebratory or romantic?) dinner at home. And although we are starting at the end of your meal, I'm going to try to craft the perfect playlist for your meal. So check back over the next couple days if you'd like to see my suggestions for the pairings to go with your first course and entree. This dessert recipe - nectarines with ricotta-vanilla cream and pine nut brittle - is sweet, cheery and playful. It calls for a warm, intimate and laid back record - something perfect for a romantic evening at home with your special someone or relaxing dinner party. With that in mind, I can think of no better pairing for this recipe than Ella Fitzgerald & Louis Armstrong - The Complete Ella Fitzgerald & Louis Armstrong on Verve. Ok, to be fair, this is a three disc set that collects the 1956 album Ella and Louis, the 1957 Ella and Louis Again, and the 1958 album Porgy and Bess. While my favorite of the three albums is Ella and Louis, all three are fun and relaxing music for a Sunday afternoon cleaning around the house, making the 3 disc collection worth your money. Head over to Musical Pairings' home to read the full review. --MatthewJuly 24, 2009
Kazu Sushi: Change in the Routine + Local Pairing
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Sometimes, I get stuck on things. The same salad for lunch (spinach, berries, goat cheese, walnuts). The same, super comfortable, worn-in leather flats. The same route to work. And the same sushi restaurant. When it comes to food, I'm generally an adventurer. But when it comes to sushi, I tend to stick to my tried-and-true favorites. Sure, I'll throw in an innovative roll or two. Order some of the nigiri specials. But with so many sushi choices within a .5 mile radius of my home, I tend to opt between two of my favorites.
And so it's no surprise that it has taken me 4 years to venture over to Kazu Sushi, which happens to be located right across the street from my market (the one I visit 2-3 times per week). When my aunt and cousin came to stay with me in San Francisco, I knew that I'd be taking them around to a lot of places I had been to hundreds of times, so I really wanted to experience something new with them. Something that we could discover and share together. And so I took them to Sushi Kazu.On a cold and incredibly foggy San Francisco summer night, we were greeted with warm, wet towels, hot tea, and a cozy packed dining room (at 9 pm on a Friday night). My little cousin isn't one for sushi, so we ordered her a simple cucumber roll. My aunt, more of an adventurous eater, was open to getting a few different rolls--which she kindly allowed me to choose. We went for an Alaska--salmon and avocado. Yellowtail and green onion. Real crab California. And, one adventurous one--a Hawaiian roll with unagi (eel), mango and tuna. We didn't get any nigiri or sashimi, or any of the delicious-sounding appetizers listed on the menu and the specials board. And yet, everything was just right. Extremely fresh fish. The perfect amount of rice to filling. Great vegetables. More, the rolls were all formed well and didn't fall apart! It's a wonder it has taken me so long to get here. Next time, I'm looking forward to taking Matt.
I must say: trying something new always feels good--even if it's right in your own backyard.
Local Pairings: Casey & Brian - Catbees LP & No Fiction 7" + Kazu Sushi
San Francisco's Casey & Brian are a hyper-punk duo consisting entirely of shout-out-loud vocals, drums and a keyboard (Casy & Brian share/alternate all three responsibilities). Their music sounds like equal parts Screeching Weasel, Matt & Kim, and Moldy Peaches. The duo's debut album, "Catbees," collects 10 primarily animal-themed danceable electro-punk tracks of relentless drums and booming, incessant keys. Vocals are shouted aloud, with lyrics often tripping on top of other lyrics. Live, the formula is explosive and wide-eyed, and to their extreme credit, the album does an excellent job of capturing that energy. The opening track on the album, "Duex Drumbaclots," serves as Casy & Brian's musical manifesto, as they declare that: "we made the record that we want to hear." And on the track "Animal Calls N' Dancehalls," Casy and Brian demonstrate an obsession with animals that continues on at least 6 of the 18 minute long album's 9 other songs, as they sing/shout the lyrics such as: "certain animals dance after hours at the zoo / if a zebra can get down / so can you" atop stuttering, grimy keys and ratatat drums. The whole album is a sophomoric mess in the best possible way, and makes for irresistible dance-punk fun. Head over to Musical Pairings @ eating/sf to read the rest of the review. --Matthew
July 22, 2009
Banana Bread with Chocolate and Ginger: For Friendship
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When I went backpacking through Europe the summer after my junior year of college, I remember reading a poignant quote--on the wall of the Guinness Factory in Dublin, Ireland, of all places. It said, "home is not where you live but where they understand you." I hold this concept close to my heart because, in my opinion, a place is really just a place. You can like it, sure, but the thing that makes it home are people.
It took me a long time to find the banana bread recipe. The one I want to make over and over again. The one I want to wrap up, still warm, and present to a friend after getting off a plane, or out of a car after a long drive. Unsurprisingly, the one that blew me away features a hearty dose of chocolate.
The banana-chocolate combo is my blanket. It makes me think of traveling on trains with a jar of Nutella and a few bananas tucked away into my bag (for 'nutritional purposes').. And crepes from the streets of Paris. I associate the combination with city-hopping adventures, but it also instantly envelops me in warmth because nowadays, I bake this bread to share with friends. Break into it, still warm and gooey, at a kitchen table--no matter where that kitchen table is--and propel the conversation wherever it might head.
Banana Bread with Chocolate and Ginger
* adapted from A Homemade Life by orangette blogger, Molly Wizenberg
6 tablespoons of butter
2 cups of white whole-wheat flour
3/4 cup of sugar
3/4 of a teaspoon of baking soda
1/2 of a teaspoon of salt
either 3/4 cup of semi-sweet chocolate chips, or 3/4 cup of finely chopped semi-sweet chocolate
1/3 cup of diced crystallized ginger (optional, but highly recommended)
2 eggs
2 large, overripe, well-mashed bananas
1/4 cup of yogurt (while Molly's recipe calls for whole milk only, I say low-fat is fine!)
1 teaspoon of vanilla extract
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F and grease a loaf pan with butter.
2. Microwave the butter for about 30 seconds, or until it is melted (make sure not to overcook).
3. Whisk together all of the dry ingredients (save the chocolate and the ginger) in a large bowl.
4. Next, add in the chocolate (chips or well-chopped shards) and ginger, until they're well-incorporated. Set aside.
5. In a separate, deep bowl, beat the eggs gently. Mix in the yogurt, butter, vanilla extract and mashed banana.
6. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry mix with a spatula until just combined. Don't worry if you see lumps of banana in there!
7. Transfer the batter into your loaf pan, distributing evenly.
8. Bake the bread in the center of the oven for about an hour (until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean). The top should be nicely browned, but not burned.
9. Serve warm out of the oven, cooled, chilled, by itself, or with a nice dollop of whipped cream or a scoop of ice cream.
Musical Pairings: Matt & Kim + Banana Bread with Chocolate and Ginger
Like Kasey, and probably like most of our readers, I have associations with banana bread. Specifically, I associate banana bread with childhood. I still have lots of great memories of mom's banana bread, which of course for many years was the only "good" banana bread. However, unlike some of my other favorite childhood foods (i.e. Fruity Pebbles, Oreos and the uncooked cake batter than I would eat with my younger brother when our parents were away), I never grew out of banana bread. It still makes me feel good, and although it probably isn't an especially "healthy" food-stuff, it isn't as bad for you as the other childhood favorites. Accordingly, I think banana bread, especially a banana bread with crystallized ginger and chocolate, deserves a pairing that calls to mind the excitement of childhood. Thus, Matt & Kim's self-titled debut album is a perfect pairing for this banana bread recipe - after all, you'd be hard pressed to find a band that plays and performs with more of the enthusiasm and excitement. Click over to Musical Pairings' homepage to read the rest of the review. --MatthewJuly 20, 2009
Marinated Eggplant: My Summer Routine
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For the past couple of years, I've made broiled eggplant, which I would dress with olive oil, parsley and garlic. I would stuff it into pitas by itself or with some mozzarella, or just eat it straight off of the baking sheet. When cooked right, the tender eggplant meat is perfect eaten whole, or processed into a 'caviar' of sorts. But this spring, I ate the most delicious eggplant dish at a friend's house--it was that same tender, broiled eggplant, only it was marinated in a dressing of red wine vinegar, olive oil, capers and mint. The flavor combination was a slam dunk. Since I first tried it, I've been making it over and over--most recently, swapping in parsley for the mint. If you don't happen to have capers (or don't particularly like them), you're open to taking them out of this recipe entirely.
The best part about this perfect-for-a-summer-picnic/dinner party recipe is that it's so flexible. More, you can make a big batch and throw it into the fridge overnight. Everything comes together in less than 45 minutes. It also pairs great with a glass of white wine on a particularly warm summer day.
Marinated Eggplant
adapted from a recipe in Smitten Kitchen
*serves two with...maybe some leftovers (depending on how much you like eggplant)
3-4 small Italian eggplants, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
4-5 tablespoons of olive oil
2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
1/4 cup of fresh chopped mint or parsley
2 tablespoons of capers
1. Preheat your oven's broiler.
2. Line a baking sheet with foil and place the eggplant slices over the foil. Generously brush the slices with olive oil.
3. Broil the eggplant for about 10 minutes (or until the pieces are slightly browned, but not burned). Use a spatula to fold the pieces into a medium-sized bowl.
4. In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, 3 tablespoons of olive oil, capers, salt and pepper (to taste), and mint or parsley.
5. Pour the mixture over the warm eggplant and toss well. Add more salt and pepper, if needed. Let marinade for about 20 minutes, or overnight and serve at room temperature.
Musical Pairings: Elvis Costello & the Attractions - Blood & Chocolate + Marinated Eggplant
Eggplant is such a versatile vegetable (or fruit, depending on your outlook). It has a spongy texture and subtle taste that will absorb the flavors of whatever you prepare it with. It is used in numerous cultural cuisines, and tastes good however you prepare it: you can saute it, bake it, grill it or fry it. This particular recipe, made with the red wine vinegar, is slightly tangy, creamy and refreshing. The versatility of the eggplant itself, along with the red wine marinade that Kasey used for this particular recipe make Elvis Costello's Blood & Chocolate a perfect pairing for this dish. As an extremely versatile musician, Costello's discography draws from and incorporates a wide array of musical genres such as new-wave, country, bluegrass, classic rock n' roll, and punk rock. The red wine vinegar marinade for this recipe is a good analogy for Blood & Chocolate, which reflects an almost acidic, sour romanticism that Costello has defined so well throughout his career. Head over to Musical Pairings's home for the rest of the review. --MatthewJuly 17, 2009
Cafe Claude: Alley Dining
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Whenever a friend suggests that we meet up after work to grab dinner at a 'convenient location,' it usually means downtown--especially if said dinner were to take place right after work, or with a friend that's coming into the city via public transportation. I tend to cringe a little--not because there are no restaurants in the Financial District per se, but rather because few restaurants in the Financial District truly excite me.
I've sounded off on Perbacco and Gitane in entries past--both great dinner choices in downtown. But last week, I just wasn't in the mood for a grandiose, celebratory meal. I wanted something fun, fresh, tasty, and reasonably priced. Enter: Claude Lane, one of two notable alleys (the other being Belden Place) in downtown San Francisco that transport you, instantly, to a little piece of Europe.
I was first introduced to Belden Place (which I dare say I've always called Belden Lane) by my mom, tastemaker that she is. This little hidden alley is easy-to-miss. Once you make that turn though, it's all over. You'll feel like you've tumbled down a rabbit hole and landed on a street in Europe. An ambiguous street, admittedly, as Belden Lane is home to one of the biggest Bastille Day celebrations in the city (at Cafe Bastille), as well as Catalan, Spanish, Italian and Basque cuisines. The alley is tightly packed, with most restaurants featuring open air tables that line the streets and come alive in the evenings.
The same is true of Claude Lane, which is home to recently-reviewed gem, Gitane, as well as Cafe Claude, a charming Parisian cafe (and jazz bar). The white table-clothed restaurant may make you think that it serves up luxuriously overpriced, tiny portions, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that the fare was good (and not minuscule), and the price was right. Most of the salads were in the $8-10 range, and plates hovered around $17-20. For my meal, I ordered the fish special of the night--butterfish over cranberry beans and a cold salad of mixed vegetables. The piece of fish was quite sizeable, and I was completely satisfied with it, sans appetizer. I really enjoyed the bed of beans and chilled veggies in a light vinaigrette. On an unusually warm San Francisco night, it was particularly refreshing.
While I cannot, in all honesty, say that this was one of the most memorable meals of my life, I think that the food was extremely fresh and tasty, and the atmosphere was just right. Also--if you know me, or have gotten to know me through this blog, you'll know that I love bread. Love it. In fact, I'll admit that I'd happily eat a slice of bread with nutella every day of the week. So, it's no surprise that I am certainly partial to restaurants that take care to serve good bread. Cafe Claude certainly did right, providing an ample amount of 'horned' Acme baguette that was perfectly fresh.
Next time you find yourself in downtown San Francisco, whether it be for an after work meal with a friend, or a business trip, mosey on over to Claude Lane.
Local Pairings: Silian Rail - and I you, to pieces + Cafe Claude
As a committed omnivore, I'm very skeptical of meals that don't include meat or fish. That is not to say I completely eschew vegetarian meals, just that I approach these meals with lowered expectations unless there are mushrooms involved (I love mushrooms like nobody's business). The same is true for instrumental bands. I certainly don't dislike instrumental music (in fact, most of the best jazz and electronica is instrumental), but instrumental rock music is a tough sell for me. In other words, I approach any instrumental rock band (especially a two-piece) with the same skepticism I approach vegetarian meals. And although I can be won over, the bar has been set pretty high by the awesomeness of Ratatat, Tortoise and Tenebre. For this reason, San Francisco's Silian Rail had a relatively steep hill to climb in order to win me over. However, after catching a recent set opening for French Miami at the Rickshaw, I was easily won over as a fan. Swing on over to Musical Pairings to read the rest of the review. --Matthew
July 15, 2009
Pasta with Wild Mushrooms, Peas and Bacon
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The inspiration behind this recipe certainly came from the pasta that I ate at Stellina. It incorporates fresh-from-the-market English peas, as well as a medley of wild mushrooms, shallot, bacon, and cheese...lots of cheese. Everything came together pretty quickly and I must say looked gorgeous. I wouldn't recommend making this with plain old mushrooms--if you don't have access to wild, just skip them all together. You could, in theory, use frozen peas, but nothing beats shelling a bagful of peas that are crisp and tender, and collecting them into a bowl. You're also certainly welcome to add a splash of white wine to this dish, but it's really not necessary. Between the olive oil, bacon fat, garlic, shallot, and cheese, I think you've got a lot of flavors working with you.
Also, don't drain the fat. I know you're going to squirm, and be tempted to, but just don't do it. If you're worried about your waistline, just remind yourself that Fall is just around the corner. Just kidding. Go ahead and use lean, thin cuts of bacon that are more meaty than fatty. And remember that you are using whole wheat pasta in the recipe. And the freshest of vegetables.
Pasta with Wild Mushrooms, Peas and Bacon
* serves 2
8-10 ounces whole wheat fettuccine
1 cup of mixed wild mushrooms of your choice, cleaned, with stems trimmed to your liking
1/3 cup of fresh, shelled English peas
2 slices of good quality bacon, cut up into 1 inch cubes
2-3 tablespoons of olive oil
salt and pepper, to taste
1 large shallot, chopped finely
Parmeggiano Reggiano, to taste
2 tablespoons of fresh parsley, chopped finely
1-2 cloves of garlic, minced
1. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a non-stick saute pan over medium heat. Add in the chopped shallot, garlic and bacon, cooking until the shallot softens and then bacon begins to crisp up nicely.
2. Toss in the mushrooms (make sure you've sliced any large ones), sauteing everything together for another 5-6 minutes, or until the mushrooms reach your desired consistency (tender, but not falling apart).
3. Meanwhile, cook the pasta until it is al dente. I prefer to use a nice whole wheat fettuccine for this recipe as it pairs well with the nuttiness of the mushrooms. Once the pasta is cooked, drain it and set aside.
4. Add the peas and parsley to the skillet, season with salt and pepper and cook for just a minute or two before tossing in the pasta and mixing well, coating the pasta with the oils and fat.
5. Remove the skillet from the heat and put the pasta into a large serving bowl. Shave a generous amount of Parmeggiano Reggiano over the dish, tossing to combine.
6. Serve with additional cheese and salt and fresh pepper, to your liking.
Musical Pairings: The Black Keys- Thickfreakness + Pasta with Wild Mushrooms, Peas and Bacon
The pasta with wild mushrooms, peas and bacon that Kasey and I threw together last week was pure comfort food at its best. A medley of my favorite ingredients including quality apple-smoked bacon, wild mushrooms, fresh peas from our farmer's market and yummy Al Dente pasta was a sure hit on a day when I was feeling weary. And we must have done something right because after dinner, I was feeling great. Likewise, Akron, Ohio's the Black Keys must be doing something right. After all, Thom Yorke from Radiohead had this to say about the band in a recent interview with Pitchfork: "There are bands I look up to. Like I look up to the Black Keys." Although I wouldn't try to speculate why the Radiohead front man looks up to this relatively low-key Ohio two-piece, it is easy to see why he would love their music: their rootsy, minimalistic brand of blues-rock is rustic warming, comforting, and if you are like me - just makes you feel good, just like today's recipe. Head on over to Musical Pairings to read the rest. --MatthewJuly 13, 2009
Quinoa Breakfast Bowl: A Fresh Start
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This is my new favorite weekend breakfast. A big bowl of nutty, warm quinoa, tenderly soaked in milk, fragranced with cinnamon and honey, and studded with toasted nuts and berries. If you're unfamiliar with quinoa entirely--it is a supremely nutrient-packed grain that is most often found in Latin American cuisine. I tend to use it in the way I would rice or cous cous--cooked with lots of herbs and spices and topped off with fish (or prawns, or chicken) and vegetables. Like most grains, quinoa is pretty versatile, and you could easily play with flavor profiles.
I'd been meaning to make a breakfast porridge with quinoa for quite some time, and am so glad that I finally did. I was so pleased with my first experiment--on a Sunday morning--that I was eagerly waiting for the next weekend so that I could whip up another batch. This is the sort of breakfast that will make you feel satisfied in the way that you would after eating a big omelet, and also indulged--like you ate a warm, oaty scone. Quinoa is extremely filling, so this is a great meal to have before a long afternoon hike. Importantly, it's cheap and easy. Many markets sell quinoa (which comes in a rusty red and light yellow color) in the bulk bins. I like to stock up on both kinds. I find that their taste does not vary greatly, but it's fun to cook with different colors.
You could also make this with any nuts you choose--walnuts and hazelnuts would work beautifully. I've only made this with fresh blueberries and blackberries, but I imagine that dried fruits--cherries, figs--would be delectable as well.
I could go on and on about why I love this dish so much, but one of the last things I'll say about it is that it's perfect any time of year--cozy enough for a rainy winter day, and refreshing and light for a sunny summer morning.
Quinoa Breakfast Bowl
recipe adapted from Heidi Swanson at 101 Cookbooks
*in theory, this serves 4, but we tend to eat this between the two of us, so double or halve accordingly :)
1 cup of milk
1 cup of water
1 cup or red or yellow quinoa, rinsed
1 pint of mixed blackberries and blueberries
1/2 teaspoon of ground cinnamon (more to taste)
1/3 cup of chopped, toasted pecans
honey, to taste
1. Pour the milk, water and quinoa (stirring to combine) in a medium pot and bring the ingredients to a boil.
2. Reduce the heat to a low simmer, cover and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until 3/4ths of the liquid is absorbed by the grains.
3. Meanwhile, toast the nuts by spreading them on a cookie sheet and baking at 350 degrees F for about 5 minutes.
4. When the quinoa is done, take the pot off of the heat and let it stand, with the cover on, for about five minutes.
5. Take the pecans out of the oven.
6. Pour in the blackberries, sprinkle with cinnamon and stir in the pecans. Next, add about a teaspoon of honey and stir to mix.
7. Scoop into bowls and serve with additional berries and honey for the table.
I'd probably tried quinoa in any fashion when Kasey and I first started dating. Kasey would (and does) frequently prepare it as a side dish for many meals as a substitute for grains or rice. Prior to meeting Kasey, I had never so much as heard of this awesome grain. And if you haven't tried it yet, I highly recommend picking it up from your market: it is delicious, highly nutritious, easy to prepare and works as a great side or substitute for rice and other grains. However, I think I only realized quinoa's true potential and versatility when visiting Peru in 2007 with my friend Angela. Quinoa originated in the Andes and was an extremely important food for the Incas. So while hiking the Inca trail, it was fitting that my group ate quinoa as a cereal-like side with dinner and again as a relatively sweet, tasty drinkable porridge for breakfast. For this reason, there could be no better pairing for this quinoa recipe than Peru Negro - Sangre de un Don. For the complete review, check out Musical Pairings's home. --MatthewJuly 10, 2009
Stellina: Modern Italian Comfort in Pt. Reyes
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Sometimes, you take a wrong turn, and end up hiking twelve miles in five hours on a day when you anticipated hiking for two hours and eating oysters. Oh wait, that hasn't happened to you? Over the 4th of July weekend, Matt and I decided to do a leisurely 5 mile loop in Pt. Reyes, followed by some oyster tasting at Drake's Bay. That was our plan. Until we somehow veered off of the trail, only to realize that we had made a wrong turn 4 miles into the wrong direction.My immediate reaction, as you can imagine, was pure horror. My second thought was: there go the oysters! Knowing that Drake's Bay oyster farms would be closing at 4 pm, I knew that there was no way that we'd make it back in time. But, as luck would have it, we weren't too late to make it over to Tomales Bay Oyster Company--which is fantastic, by the way--to grab a dozen oysters and indulge in a little pre-dinner snack. Given that our hike ended up taking much longer than anticipated, and lunch was a peach, a grapefruit, and some nuts (split between the two of us), we were certainly ready for dinner, and weren't about to drive all the way to San Francisco.
I had remembered reading a great review by Michael Bauer in the San Francisco Chronicle about a fantastic Italian restaurant in little downtown Pt.Reyes called Stellina, and my heart was happy when we walked in a little after 6 pm, without a reservation, only to be seated at a cozy little table right away. On short order, of course, was a carafe of white wine (to celebrate our extraordinary feat, ha!). After eyeing both the handmade pastas and delicious-sounding fish, I made a proposition: splitting the pasta dish and the fish. And what a good choice this was!
The pasta was tender as could be--delicate bucatini with peas and smoked bacon was enveloped in a light, creamy sauce that literally melted in my mouth. So inspired was I by this dish, that I immediately adapted it in my home later in the weekend. The bacon added a nice crunch and smokiness while the fresh peas were stunningly flavorful. Our second 'first' was a locally-fished halibut (with a heavenly crispy skin) accompanied by greens and a potato hash. The fish was light, elegantly presented, and the perfect way to end the meal.
And dessert? A rectangular slice of TCHO fudge cake, with a little whipped cream and caramel, as well as a cappuccino (for me), and a cafe au lait (for Matt). While Stellina's coffee-making skills are average, at best, their locally-focused, seasonal dishes and handmade pastas really impressed me. And the atmosphere? Just as cozy, warm and modern as any wall-to-wall packed restaurant in San Francisco.
Local Pairings: French Miami + Stellina, Pt. Reyes Station, California
The angular and synth-laden music of the self-titled debut album by San Francisco's French Miami features shout out loud vocals mingled with math-rock guitar riffs and steady, rhythmic percussion that alternates between danceable, droning and explosive. In other words, musically, their self-titled debut album flows between dense, electrifying math-rock riffs, a la Battles, to hypnotic, jazz-inspired drones, a la Tortoise, but with coherent punk-rock styled lyrics. In addition to Battles and Tortoise, the album makes me think of bands like Trans Am or Fugazi. French Miami consists of drummer Chris Crawford, and Jason Heiselmann and Roland Curtis sharing guitar and synth responsibilities. The self-titled debut is phenomenal, and is easily one of the best albums from the Bay in the past couple years. Head over to Musical Pairings @ eating/sf for the full review. --Matthew
July 7, 2009
Fiesta: Fish Tacos with Spicy Salsa and Pickled Onions
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This 4th of July, I accepted the inevitable--there was no BBQ to be had. I was a little sad that I didn't actually plan anything involving a BBQ, but as soon as I decided that I was going to create the Mexican spread of my dreams, I surely forgot all about burgers and hot dogs. Having purchased a pound of ling cod, corn tortillas and dried hibiscus flowers to make a refreshing drink called Agua de Jamaica, I was ready to start the prep work for my tacos. I greatly adapted a recipe that I found on Epicurious.com. I whipped up a spicy fresh tomato salsa with adobo sauce while my fish and red onions marinated on the counter. If you've never purchased a can of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce from a Mexican market-- I highly recommend it. It lasts for a while in the fridge and adds a fantastic smoky, heat to salsas, soups and marinades. One warning, though, don't go overboard. And when I say overboard, I mean any more than a teaspoon. Seriously, half of a teaspoon of hot adobo sauce is usually enough for you to taste the flavor--and feel the heat in your mouth.
Of all of the fish tacos that I have eaten in my life, I have to say that these were some of the best. I didn't really expect it, to be honest. The marinated red onions (which I kick myself for not making earlier--they're SO easy) were definitely key, as was the salsa. I downplayed the oregano in the fish marinade, and am glad I did so. This recipe is all about chili, jalapeno, cilantro and lime, so be sure not skimp.
One of the best thing about these tacos is that you can easily double or triple the recipe, or halve it--if you're having a party of one. For a festive touch, I recommend whipping up the Agua de Jamaica I mentioned--I used a recipe from Heidi Swanson's Super Natural Cooking, but Tim over at Lottie & Doof has a great (appropriately-timed!) recipe on his site as well. I recommend using raw, unrefined sugar.
Fiesta!
Fish Tacos with Spicy Salsa and Pickled Onions
* taco recipe adapted from a recipe by Lourdes Castro in Simply Mexican; salsa is my own creation
*this recipe will serve 2 hungry eaters for dinner, without any additional sides, but can serve 4 if you're making other dishes for the meal.
For the pickled onions:
1/2 red onion, sliced thinly using a mandoline or sharp knife
Approximately 3/4 cup of red wine vinegar
For the fish:
1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons of Mexican chili powder
1/2 teaspoon of dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon of ground cumin
1/4 cup of roughly chopped cilantro leaves
1 jalapeño pepper, cleaned and finely chopped
1 pound of cod, cut into 4 pieces.
Salt, to taste
For the salsa:
2 roma tomatoes, chopped
1/2 jalapeño pepper, chopped finely
1/4 cup of finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup of finely chopped cilantro
salt & pepper, to taste
1/2 teaspoon of adobo sauce (from a can of chipotles in adobo)
juice from 1/2 lime
Additional garnishes:
red cabbage, thinly sliced and chopped
chopped cilantro
lime wedges
corn tortillas, for serving
1. Marinate the onions by putting the slices in a small bowl and fill with red wine vinegar until it covers the onions. You can pickle the onions for a minimum of 30 minutes, or a week.
2. Marinate the fish. To make the marinade, combine the olive oil, spices, cilantro and chopped jalapeño in a small bowl. Place the fish in a medium bowl, cover with marinade, coating well, and allow to sit for 20-30 minutes.
3. To make the salsa, combine all of the salsa ingredients in a medium bowl, tossing to mix well. Add more or less adobo sauce, to taste, but keep in mind that it is VERY hot.
4. To cook the fish, heat a nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Season the fish with salt and place the pieces into the pan. Cook for 4 minutes on one side, then flip and cook for another 2. Take the pan off the heat, and use a spatula to break up the fish fillets into smaller bits, making sure to mix it well with the cooked out marinade, and scraping any bits from the bottom of the pan.
5. To prep the corn tortillas, place four at a time between two damp paper towels, and microwave for 45 seconds. Place the warm tortillas, wrapped in the paper towels, or a towel, on a plate and cover with another plate to keep warm.
6. To assemble: scoop the fish into the center of one tortilla. Top with salsa, sliced cabbage, cilantro and pickled onions. Squeeze a bit of lime over the top.
Musical Pairings: Girl Talk - Feed the Animals + Fish Tacos with Spicy Salsa and Pickled Onions
Although fish tacos may not seem like an intricate dish, after trying this recipe, I think you'd agree that the quality of any fish taco is heavily dependent upon the individual ingredients you use to make the taco. That is to say - each ingredient is important. That is certainly true with this recipe, which is fantastic. Here, the pickled onions are every bit as important as the fresh, spicy salsa, which is then as important to this recipe as the seasoned fish. In other words, lots of small parts contribute to create a delicious, flavorful taco that seems fun and effortless. These tacos are fun for dinner for two, but are also excellent party food. Girl Talk's album Feed the Animals is similarly fun, seemingly effortless party music, and is successful in part due to the well thought out selection of quality pieces that comprise the whole. Head over to Musical Pairings @ eating/sf for the full review. --Matthew
July 6, 2009
Baby Turnips and Greens and Urban Farmstand
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When I saw these gorgeous baby turnips, tucked in bundles into a little basket, I immediately veered in their direction. Their round bodies were so smooth and their leaves were so fragrant, I just couldn't resist. The problem was, of course, my only experience with turnips was largely in restaurants, and I had no idea how you actually cook them. Already armed with a basket of baby shitakes for a quick saute, I was looking for something equally light to complement a dinner spread of cheese, olives, sauteed mushrooms and scallops.
The nice lady at the stand told me that baby turnips are sweet as can be, and need little other than a quick saute. Being a turnip novice, I would have suspected that I should trim off the greens, but the woman assured me that the greens are just as tender and flavorful as the turnips themselves, and recommended that I saute them alongside the actual turnips.
My resulting farm-fresh dinner sort of felt like a picnic spread in the countryside. All I was really missing was a checkered tablecloth. As promised, the turnips was so sweet and juicy and the greens were incredibly flavorful. I was so pleased with my unique find that I devoured half the bunch in seconds. If you're looking to have a light, farm-fresh dinner, I'd highly recommend cooking up a few plates of vibrant veggies (as I mentioned, I sauteed baby shitakes with butter, salt and pepper), searing some scallops, and getting a nice cheese spread on the table (we had a buttery brie, boucheron and a stinkier morbier). I also love buttery lightly-salted green olives.
Baby Turnips and Greens
1 bunch of baby turnips
salt and pepper, to taste
lemon wedge
1/4 cup of water or sherry
1 tablespoon of butter
1. Trim the turnips by removing the green tops from the round turnips. Cut off the bottom, pointy ends of the turnips. Toss any yellowing leaves.
2. Chop the turnip leaves roughly and toss in a bowl along with the trimmed baby turnips.
3. In a small, nonstick pan, heat the butter.
4. Toss in the turnips and greens, sprinkle with some salt and pepper, and add the water.
5. Cook on medium-high heat for about 5-6 minutes, tossing around a bit.
6. Give the turnips a nice squeeze of lemon at the end.
7. Remove from heat and serve. Add more salt & pepper, to taste.
Musical Pairings: Sufjan Stevens - Seven Swans + Baby Turnips and Greens
At first thought, pairing an album with baby turnips and greens seemed pretty hard. I sought inspiration in a variety of sources. Some foods have symbolism, but despite significant research (i.e. I looked up turnips on Wikipedia), I could find no symbolic meaning associated with turnips. I even busted out the Oxford English Dictionary in order to look into the etymology of the word turnip, and found no inspiration there. However, I did learn that the earliest usage of turnip found in the English language is from a recipe dated approximately 1533, which noted that when "turnepes" are "boyled" they "norysheth moche" (although, as an fyi for the nerds like me, turnips do appear much earlier in Latin, and references date back to Pliny the Elder and Columella from the Roman Empire). After deciding to give up on inspirational gimmicks, I decided just to look for a simple, beautiful album. An album that is warming, earthy and that norysheth moche, er... is very nourishing. The result of this search was Sufjan Stevens' 2004 album Seven Swans. Head over to Musical Pairings @ eating/sf for the rest of the review.--Matthew
July 4, 2009
Serpentine: Another Local Gem in the Dogpatch
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There's something that always seems to pull me into hidden little nooks and crannies. Whether they be alleys--each with unique personalities (boisterous, quiet and cozy, peaceful)--off-the-beaten-path hiking trails, or used bookstores--the 'diamond in the rough' always seems to spark my fancy.
It's kind of like that with neighborhoods, too. I know that the Inner Sunset might not be 'hip,' but it's the coziest place I've found in the city yet. For hanging out and going out, though, many of my favorite city neighborhoods are definitely a little rebellious. The Dogpatch strikes me as a little rebel. Off to edge of the city, filled with 'hipster bunkers,' as a cab driver recently referred to the apartments and condos lining the streets, it's definitely a place that I rarely find myself in, but am always kind of intrigued by. I visited Piccino when I last ventured out. This past weekend, it was Serpentine that drew me in. In the heart of the Dogpatch, the restaurant definitely struck me as a the cool kids' hangout. With soft lighting, a lot of black and cream, and a laid back attitude, Serpentine was the perfect way to start my 4th of July weekend. We started our meal wtih a beautiful white peach and nectarine salad with fresh lettuces and house cured pancetta. The salad, and my glass of vino verde literally made me feel like I was diving into an ice cold swimming pool on a hot summer day--despite the tumbling fog.
We opted for hearty mains--Matt for the gnocchi and wild mushrooms, and I for roast duck leg over corn puree and Mission figs. Both dishes were exceptional--both in flavor and presentation. While on the pricier end (most entrees ran about $24), I felt that the atmosphere of the restaurant and the quality of the ingredients befitted what I'd call 'high-end dining/low-key experience.' One of my favorite parts of the meal, though, had to be the dessert. A warm almond cake topped with Bi-Rite vanilla ice cream and a cherry compote--it was truly delicious to the last crumb. The visit could definitely inspire me to visit the 'hood more often--particularly if I could convince my friends to come out and hang out at Yield Wine Bar--where happy hour (which lasts until 8 pm on Thursday) carafes run $10, and all of the wines are organic. You could even order some delicious chocolate nibbles (as we did), cheese plates and other savory nibbles.
Wherever you are, I hope that you're enjoying your 4th of July weekend, staying safe and enjoying good food!
Local Pairings: Man/Miracle- Pushing and Shoving/ You've Got a Hold on Me 7" + Serpetine (SF, CA)
Man/Miracle are a four piece band (Ian, Dylan, Brian and Tyler) from Oakland, California (originally formed at UC Santa Cruz). Their name, Man/Miracle, is a reference to a 1960's film starring Belgian singer/songwriter Jacques Brel, who reached superstar level in Paris and Belgium as a musician, actor and director. While Man/Miracle have a way to go before they reach superstar level, they are definitely a band to watch. Based on the tracks I've heard, I'd bet they have at least a couple great albums in them. They have been hard at work on material for a potential full length that they recorded with Eli Crews of New, Improved Recording in Oakland. Last I spoke with them, they were in the mastering process. However, in the meantime the band has released a pretty awesome 7" titled, Pushing and Shoving / You've Got a Hold On Me, which is out now on white vinyl and silk-screened jackets hand-sewn from canvas. As you can imagine, as a vinyl junkie and record collector, I'm pretty impressed. Even better the music is great, and it is presumably limited edition, so this is one you should get your hands on while it lasts. You can buy it here. Come on over to Musical Pairings @ eating/sf for the full review. --Matthew
July 1, 2009
Halibut and Grapefruit-Jicama Salad and My Intentions
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I'm not one that is good at focusing on intentions. The dancer inside of me is always too focused on the perfect form, and making sure that I'm at the head of the class--even when I know that yoga is all about quieting your mind and calming the soul.
I come up with some of my best dinner plans and ideas during yoga. It may not be the best way to calm my soul, but it sure always feels productive. Aside from gifting me with the aches that I feel in my body and elongation that I feel in my back, yoga gives me the opportunity to make plans. I know that it's counter-intuitive to the whole yoga practice. Rather than clearing my mind, yoga sharpens my focus in the way the best kind of study session can.
The next time you practice yoga, and start daydreaming about the contents of your fridge and what you should do for dinner, I highly recommend thinking of grapefruit. And jicama. When it's hot out (or mildly warm, as we San Franciscans experience 'heat' in the city), this halibut topped with a fresh grapefruit and jicama salad is about as refreshing as it gets. Mildly flavored by the parsley and whatever olive oil you choose to use (I recommend a good, fruity one, as you'll definitely be able to taste it), this dish is light, elegant and fast. Be sure to get the freshest fish that you can and the juiciest grapefruit--the juices will give a great tang to the salad and the fish itself.
Halibut and Grapefruit-Jicama Salad
adapted from Cooking for Friends
*serves 2
1 ruby red grapefruit, peeled
1/2 cup of flat-leaf parsley, chopped finely
1/2 of a jicama, peeled, trimmed and sliced into thin ribbons (preferably using a mandoline)
2 fresh halibut fillets
2 tablespoons of olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1. Separate the grapefruit into segments, removing all of the white parts and put into a bowl.
2. Add the parsley and jicama ribbons and stir together.
3. Season the halibut with salt and pepper and heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a cast iron skillet over medium-high heat.
4. Place the fillets into the skillet, cooking for about 4 minutes on one side (until it's lightly browned). Flip the fillet and cook for approximately another 3-4 minutes. The sides of the fish should not be translucent.
5. Place a halibut fillet on each plate and top with the grapefruit-jicama salad. Drizzle olive oil on top and sprinkle with any additional salt and pepper, to taste.
Musical Pairings: Four Tet- Rounds + Halibut and Grapefruit-Jicama Salad
Four Tet is the moniker adopted by Kieran Hebden for the release of his solo-worker, which consists of primarily textured, intricate electronica. Four Tet's brand of electronica is essentially a patchwork of post rock, folk, jazz and hip hop. Four Tet's 2003 release Rounds is an excellent pairing for the halibut and grapefruit-jicama salad recipe featured today on eating/SF. The dish is refreshing, tangy, soothing and features an diverse array of flavors and textures - just like Four Tet's Rounds. Rounds is a highly textured album, sonically intriguing album that builds lovely melodies from an array of disparate, well-chosen samples. It is the perfect album for a contemplative but soothing dinner experience alone or dining in duo. Of course, it is best appreciated with a good pair of headphones - and would work equally well while driving, riding public transit or people watching in a crowded place. Head over to Musical Pairings @ eating/sf for the full review. --Matthew



















